No Worries Turf is affiliated and working in partnership with professional landscapers and gardeners who specialise in installation services. You are most welcome to utilise their expertise and services but if you decide to give it a go yourself then this is what you will need to do:
• The area for turf installation should be clearly defined and marked out as necessary.
• Pay special attention when you unroll your product.
• Always run the grain of the turf against any slope, if possible.
• Another useful forethought to have is on how you want the edges to look.
Recommended tools for the job:
1. Stanley Knife with a new blade. (Get a heavy duty tradies knife. Anything lesser in quality will cause hours of annoyance and potential injury)
2. U Shaped synthetic Grass Pins. These pins are used as anchors to pin and anchor the grass down to the crusher rock sub base to secure it in place.
3. Joining / Seaming Tape. You will find there are two types of joining tape for synthetic grass: Self Adhesive (no glue needed), more expensive but cleaner and faster to use and Non Self Adhesive Tape, cheaper and the bigger the project and the more join you will need to do the more economical it becomes (glue will be needed), 1L will glue down approx. 4sqm of turf or will be enough for approx.20 linear meters of non adhesive tape depending on its width. Now which one you will need for your project I suggest will be decided by the size of your project and budget you have allocated.
4. Infill Sand. From professional installation point of view we recommend Kiln Dried Silica Specialty Sand, because it comes nice and dry and that makes it an easier and faster sand to use, as well as because of its high density it takes a much longer time for it to get washed out by rain and that is good from the maintenance point of view. However, if for some reason you cannot get it than use the White washed sand or Play sand that’s OK as well. Now how much sand infill you will need will really depend on the type, style, pile height and density of the grass you have decided to get as well as the overall size of your project. (As a rule of thumb you want your infill level to be no higher than half the length of the grass fibers, for example, if your chosen grass strands are 4cm high than you want your infill to be about 2cm deep).
5. Flat Tip Shovel.
6. Garden Brush. A good stiff bristled plastic outdoor /garden brush. You will need it to brush the infill in to the grass and to give the grass a really good brushing as a finishing touch from all sides and I mean 360 degrees so it really looks good as well as you will need to use it in the future for maintenance to introduce more sand when needed and to give it a good brushing from time to time especially in the heavy traffic areas.
7. Synthetic grass glue; Only to be used if you have chosen to use the Non Adhesive Joining Tape or if you are installing on a hard solid base sub structure like decking, concrete or any other solid base as long as it is not dirt or sand based, think of it this way, glue will not stick to dust or dirt.
8. A plate compactor;
You will only need this tool if you are installing on a crushed rock / crushed dust sub structure. You will need to use this to compact the crushed dust and rock in to a stabilized hard smooth surfaced sub structure to install your synthetic grass. You can rent it from any equipment hire place.
You will find most of these Accessories by clicking on this link “Accessories” Tab
SYNTHETIC GRASS INSTALLATION
Synthetic turf should be installed on a compacted base of fine crushed rock at least 50mm thick (more if in a sandy area). All joins should be attached using Joining tapes and adhesives. Importantly the turf should be in filled with a mixture of SILICA sand (not washed sand or brickies sand) and/or rubber granules to at least HALF WAY. Once installed properly you should not be able to pick up the turf.
A solid compacted base is vital, but more importantly the correct amount of fill is vital. The fill not only helps keep the grass upright, but also protects it from UV. Sand fill on its own will compact over time and make the area very hard, and pure rubber will eventually wash away and leave no fill.
*Please note, a natural consequence of a roll of turf is the look of creases due to compression in packing and delivery. However, the creases will naturally straighten out after a few hot sunny days after laying the turf.
To make it easier for you to install the turf, it is recommended to unroll the rolls and leave them unrolled for a couple of days, which will help the turf relax and straighten out. Furthermore, infill helps to secure the integrity of the strand.
1) Mark off the area that you will install with an outdoor spray can marker. Consider the dimensions of your Turf to try to get as few seams as possible with your layout.
2) Remove sod, you will need to remove approximately 50mm-100mm of soil. Ideally, the sub base will be pitched slightly towards the best direction to allow for water drainage to run-off. Also, after the sub base and the Turf are installed, you will want to have the edges of the Turf at an even level with the natural landscape.
3) Cap Sprinklers. Turn off valves, compact existing ground to “firm it up fully” (you can rent a vibrating plate compactor at most rental centers). Spray weed/grass killer and place a weed barrier mesh down (not always necessary in all areas).
4) Sub-Base: It is very important to ensure the sub-base is completely dry before laying any crushed rock to reduce settling and ensure proper compaction for the surface. Once you confirm that the sub-base is dry, add a top layer of crusher dust or a 5mm crushed rock (these types are best so you don’t feel any protruding rocks when you walk on your Turf) – ask your local garden supplier or nursery what material local landscapers use under paving bricks, etc. The purpose is to firm and level your base, 50mm -100mm of base is usually enough, although in some areas of the country where soil is especially unstable you may need up to 100-150mm of base material; just ask a local expert like a nursery, landscape center, or rock yard if you are not sure. *** Please note if more than 75mm of base material is used, you will also need to increase the amount of soil removal.
5) Spread, and then compact the sub base material twice. Use the plate compactor again.
6) Finishing Sand layer (not always required if crushed rock is adequately smooth). Spread a fine layer of sand (approx. 2-5mm using just an ordinary seed drop spreader) on the surface to make it more level, bags of “play sand” are available at garden suppliers, some hardware stores. You may also use a water-filled sod roller for an even more level surface.
7) Check surface for depressions. Any depression areas 10mm-20mm or deeper should be filled-in and re-leveled. Although the turf also drains vertically through the drainage holes that are manufactured in the turf, it is still advisable to give the sub-base a slight slope, to avoid any pools of water (slope away from buildings).
8) Roll out Turf. Position the turf where it goes, be accurate (so you don’t cut off turf you actually need). Note: Try to avoid dragging the turf as this may dislodge some crushed rock or sand.
9) Cut the turf. Cut off excess material so it’s easier to work with. Always use a sharp blade in your utility knife! Make sure turf is still positioned where it goes. Now, trim turf more exactly with straight lines. For optimal performance and beauty, make sure the turf is installed exactly over the prepared base.
10) Seaming. Where two pieces of turf come together you will need to make a seam. You can always pay a local synthetic grass installer or carpet layer to help you for a few hours with this process if it makes you feel more comfortable although it usually isn’t necessary for most. The seams are simply glued together with outdoor turf adhesive and 150mm wide seaming tape.
At the joining seam, a 150mm wide piece of seaming tape should be cut to the length of the seam. The turf is to be laid seam to seam the way that it should look to ensure it fits tightly together before it is glued. Note: The pattern of turf stitching on the underside must run in the same direction before the two pieces are adhered. Both sides of the turf at the seam must be pulled back in order to install the seam tape. Note: Before adhering both pieces ensure that both edges have been properly trimmed, straight, and will match up perfectly.
Lay the seam tape down on the base directly between the two pieces of turf that are to be joined. Apply gluing compound to the entire piece of seam tape with a notched trowel. Place one side of the turf in the middle of the tape (approximately 150mm) to the center of the tape. Lay the other side of the turf over the middle of the seam tape to match up exactly to the turf that has just been adhered to the tape. Mesh the fibers together with fingers or brush. Note: Allow 24 hours for glue to properly dry. The following procedures can be administered during the drying time, but turf may shift and require repositioning.
11) Infill Preparation. Once glue has dried, trim off turf so your lawn fits as desired. Next, it is a good idea to nail the perimeter every 500mm-800mm with steel pegs (80-120mm length). In order to prepare to infill the turf, rake or power broom the turf in the opposite direction that the turf is laying on the roll. This will allow the infill material to infiltrate the turf rapidly and prevent turf blades from getting trapped in the infill. The infill process will now commence using a standard seed drop spreader with either sand or crumb rubber as an infill. The infill helps to weigh the turf down, and stabilize the fibers so as to help avoid “matting”.
Most use sand infill as it is the least expensive compared to rubber infill. Of course rubber is more shock absorbent than sand, so choose what you can afford and prefer, although it is advisable to have at least the top half in rubber infill. You want to calculate the amount of infill in advance, as you will want to leave around 15mm of grass blade exposed. As a general rule of thumb, approximately .75 of a kilogram of sand equals around 10mm of infill height. Spread the infill in several passes. As you spread the infill you should make one entire pass on the surface then sweep it down into the fibers, repeating the process until all of your infill has been spread.
12) Optional Edging. Depending on your yard, you may want to install some type of edging material around your new lawn. Examples are natural stone, brick, rock borders, metal edging, plastic edging and timbers edging (similar to what is used around flower beds) are popular.
Congratulations!!! The installation is complete!
Synthetic Grass Maintenance
Compared to natural grass, artificial grass maintenance is a breeze. After installation has been completed, there are no more worries about mowing, weeding, fertilizing, or regular watering. Even still, synthetic grass is not entirely maintenance free.
Artificial Grass Maintenance: Remove Debris Regularly
Your synthetic grass should be kept as free from debris as possible. This includes leaves, animal waste, and smaller objects like discarded paper wrappers and branches. Inspect your lawn regularly for these objects. Remove them by hand or use a plastic garden rake. Never use a metal rake. It is also safe to use a leaf blower on synthetic grass.
Artificial Grass Cleaning
For homeowners who live in areas where it rains periodically, rainwater will usually be sufficient to remove dust and bits of soil from the synthetic grass. If desired, the area can also be hosed down periodically.
Clean up after your pets by removing solid waste as you normally would. Wash off any remaining debris with a hose. However, if there has been no rain for a long time we suggest you prevent pet odors and dirt by spraying the turf with Simple Green or a ?green? household cleaner and thoroughly wash down the area with a hose. If there are stains that cannot be removed with water alone, a mild detergent may be used. Gently wipe the surface until the stain is removed. Solvents or harsh chemicals should never be used to remove stains.
Artificial Grass Maintenance: Considerations for High Traffic Areas
Synthetic grass installed by a knowledgeable professional will be quite durable. However, it is important to keep a close eye on the areas of the lawn that receive the most traffic. Two problems in these areas are common. First, the fibers can become flattened over time. To remedy this, use a brush to return the fibers to their original position. Brush them in a number of different directions for a more natural look. Secondly, the infill under heavily-used sections can become compacted, resulting in noticeable depressions. To fix this, all that is needed is some infill and a stiff brush. Simply apply infill to the depression and work it in using the brush. Continue to add infill until the surface is once again uniform.
Professional Artificial Grass Maintenance
Removing debris, inspecting high traffic areas for depressions or flattened fibers, and artificial grass cleaning are all tasks that can quite easily be handled by the homeowner. However, there are times when it is advisable to call in a professional. If large portions of your synthetic grass lawn are flattened, it will likely be too time-consuming to fix this problem with a hand-held brush. Similarly, if your lawn requires major repairs, you would like to change its appearance, or you want additional synthetic grass installed, a professional is your best bet.